Shandur, located in the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province, is a high mountain pass that connects Chitral to Gilgit. It is often called the “Roof of the World” where the Hindu Kush, Pamir and Karakoram ranges meet. The top is a flat plateau which can be crossed between late April and early November, and is one of the four major mountain passes to enter Chitral, another being Lowari Pass from Dir. Every July a polo match is held on Shandur Top between rival teams from Chitral and Gilgit.
It must be explained that the equestrian sport of polo appeared in Central Asia way back in the 6th century BC and was originally played by the Elite. It later became a Persian national game in the 6th century AD and from Persia, the game spread to Arabia, then to Tibet, China and Japan.
Historically, polo being the king of games, it was played between small kingdoms, villages and rival groups of Gilgit and Chitral by local Rajas, Mirs and Mehtars mainly. At times, more than 50% of the annual budget of their principalities would be spent on supporting the game. From 1936 onwards polo tournaments were held annually at Shandur. The three day Shandur Polo Festival has developed steadily in recent years into the massive celebration of mountain polo that it is today. It is attended every year by thousands of foreign and domestic tourists besides prominent celebrities, public figures and opinion makers. Held on Shandur Pass, the highest – and undoubtedly the most majestic – polo ground in the world at 3,700 meters (the pass itself is at 3,800 meters), the festival also includes folk music, dancing and a camping village. The match duration is usually one hour and it is divided into two halves, with a 10 minutes interval.
Be warned: Shandur’s mountain polo is arguably polo in its purest form. This version of the game played there has attained legendary status and can surprise you by its rapidity and – at times – its violence, as the players beat each other mercilessly, the rules being: there are no rules! Even if you are not familiar to polo, this magnificent game will get you hooked very quickly! Moreover, playing polo at such an altitude is very demanding for the players, but it is even more for their horses, which speed and ferocity will not leave you indifferent. No doubt those animals are admired and sought after the world over!
Even without this tournament, Shandur is a place not to be missed for its scenery, its beauty and the breathtaking views it has to offer. The way to get there is equally marvelous with raging rivers and rugged terrain aplenty. Once at the top, the Shandur Lake is another occasion to take gorgeous photographs amid some of the highest mountains in the world.
Experiencing a traditional polo tournament in an unmatchable setting, what more can you ask for?
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